![]() ![]() It is very versatile and flexible while being extremely supportive at the same time. Spiral boning is fabulous when you are placing the boning in a curved channel. Since the boning in my corsets rarely shows, I purchased black. It is available in white, which is great for the flat white boning, but the white is more expensive than the black version. I like the results for tipping ends, but the fumes are horrid and you do need a respirator and a well ventilated area when using it. I just started using Plastidip, to see if I liked that option better. The PTFE tape is cheaper and you don’t have to worry about dangerous fumes. You can do so with Plastidip or with PTFE tape. Since you don’t want your corset to rust, you need to tip the ends. Once the ends are cut and filed, the steel inside is exposed. I use a file I purchased in set by Husky. Once you cut the boning to the desired length the ends are sharp. I use Milwaukee Straight Snips that I purchased at Home Depot. They cut through my steel boning like butter and don’t bend the ends. The snips I use now are FABULOUS! I love them. The snips I bought first were a little cheaper, but oh my gosh, I wanted to throw them out the window. These tools work for both.įirst, you need GOOD snips. I have been able to find flat steel boning in two widths, 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. If you have the right tools, it’s a breeze. ![]() You can purchase your boning pre-cut and tipped, but I never seem know in advance what lengths I will need, and don’t have the patience to wait for shipping. I purchase my boning by the yard at Dragon Town Corset Supply. I will talk about the tools I use for each. I use two types of boning, flat steel and spiral boning. ![]() It worked for some projects, but I definitely prefer the steel boning. When I started making corsets I used plastic boning, so I wouldn’t have to bother with the tools. ![]()
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